Sarah Marquis

Today we took a trip out into the Mongolian countryside with a guide, Byambaa and headed south east of Ulaanbaatar.  

We left the hustle and bustle of the city and before long we were surrounded by snow covered mountains, vast open plains and the eternal blue sky of Mongolia.

We had an amazing day and our guide was overflowing with invaluable information and advice.  The driver didn’t speak English so now and again he would chatter away in Mongolian.  I have never heard a language like it and the Mongolian pronunciation is really difficult.  

As described by Tim Severin, travel writer -  “...like two cats coughing and spitting at each other until one finally throws up.”  

We saw horses, camels and herders all going about their daily lives in the brutal -32⁰C.  I only took of my gloves for a couple of minutes to take some pictures and I can honestly say I have never felt cold like that!  It took a good ten minutes for my hands and arms to feel alive again.  You have to be pretty tough to get through a Mongolian winter.

 Mongolia truly is an exhilarating and invigorating place to visit.  The hospitality of the people is really heat-warming too.  I’m already looking forward to our return.......

 

 Today we left the hotel to be greeted by a bitter -31⁰C temperature so with rosy red cheeks and chilly noses we headed for the map shop.  

We had read that it would be difficult to obtain topographic maps in Mongolia but that this was the best place to find them.  We were advised that we would probably not be able to get all the maps we required so we were thrilled when as if by magic, map after map began to appear on the counter.  

We were so happy and so to celebrate our success we headed for Millie’s Cafe which is a popular destination for ex-pats and tourists.  After a latte and some amazing lentil soup, we eventually began to warm up.  

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Sain baina uu (hello) from Mongolia – the Land of Blue Sky

When we got to the airport in Mongolia we had to assist a young Chinese guy who either couldn’t read the arrival card or couldn’t write. Sarah filled out the form for him and with a smile of relief and chattering away to us in Chinese he was able to pass without a hitch through immigration.

We left the airport with our big Mongolian taxi driver who was so strong that he was able to carry our entire luggage by himself to the awaiting car. Mongolia welcomed us with a bitter -24, snow and an overwhelming vastness.

Before we headed for our hotel we made a pit stop at the local petrol station where the driver left us in the car and the engine running whilst he re-fuelled!!!

On the way to the hotel the driver sang along to the local radio station whilst Sarah filmed the passing scenery. We caught a tiny glimpse of the surrounding s and the mountains before heading for the city of Ulaanbaatar.

The hotel is a little bit like Faulty Towers for those of you who’ve watched the TV show. The people are lovely though and really friendly.

As with China trying to find any topographic maps here is a real struggle.

I arrived in Beijing to a freezing dark day with lots and lots of snow, which is pretty unusual for here. How the plane landed I do not know. You really couldn’t see a thing! After a treacherous taxi ride I arrived safely at my hotel. I was more than relieved when the taxi driver decided against trying to drive up the very steep hill at the side of the hotel. Sarah was already there so we had our usual cup of tea and a catch up ?

The next day we went to the Forbidden City where the Chinese Emperor used to live with his hundreds of concubines. Each evening the Emperor would choose one lucky lady to share his bed. His trusted unics would undress and bathe her then wrap her tightly in white silk (this way she could hide no weapons). She was then carried into the Emperor’s bedroom and placed on the floor where she had to escape her silk prison, like a butterfly emerging from its cocoon and crawl along the floor into his bed. She must remain beneath him at all times to show her submission. Once the act was over and depending on how he felt it went, the Emperor would decide whether or not to give the woman herbs to destroy any possibility of conception or allow the pregnancy to continue.

Today we wrapped ourselves up in our own makeshift cocoons (enormous, yellow arctic jackets) and headed for the Great Wall of China. We may look silly but damn they’re warm and we certainly needed them. It was a freezing cold -10 day and The Great Wall of China was covered in snow like a slice of iced cake. However, we had an almost cloudless, beautiful blue sky and lots of sunshine. It was even more spectacular than I could ever have imagined. It was a truly unforgettable experience.

Tomorrow we are heading for pastures new.........Mongolia..........back soon.......

 

 

Destination Bangkok 

 

Je me sens toujours aussi privilégiée de pouvoir prendre un avion et de changer de culture, d’odeurs, de couleurs en quelques heures seulement…

J’ai tellement pris l’avion dans ma vie qu’un décollage est comme un ronron rassurant, j’adore voler, c’est le début du passage dans un autre monde où de nouvelles aventures m’attendent.

 

Il y a quelques années où mon compte bancaire connaissait plus de sorties que de rentrées, je faisais méticuleusement attention d’avoir l’équivalent (argent) d’un billet d’avion pour l’Australie sur un compte séparé…

Cela ne me faisait rien de me priver de tout extra pour avoir le choix.

C’est pour moi le plus important

– la liberté, c'est avoir le choix  – 

 

Aujourd’hui la pluie tombe, le bassin qui accueille des fleurs de lotus dégage une force tranquille.

La lumière a baissé de quelques lumens, les palmes verdoyantes soigneusement orientées deviennent soudainement plus oppressantes, leurs contours s’accentuent.

Ce jardin est le seul endroit tranquille que j’ai trouvé pour me couper du bruit ambiant de cette Asie si chaotique dans le bruit et le mouvement.

Ma tolérance aux bruits, à la foule est presque nulle … Je suis déjà dans la construction de mon cocon comme une chrysalide qui scrupuleusement suit le processus qui va faire qu’un jour, un magnifique papillon va pouvoir naître et prendre son envol !!!

Je suis dans cette phase ou chaque moment est très important, chaque nourriture ingurgitée est appréciée, je ne supporte pas d’avoir faim dans cette période de préparation. Le processus de déconditionnement a commencé ...je ne suis pas encore prête à l’envol final.

Le processus est en route ...

Sarah 

---- english translation by Heidi Etsell

Destination Bangkok

 

I always feel privileged to be able to take a plane and change cultures, smells and colours in only a few hours…

I have taken the plane so many times in life that the sound of the engines during take-off is like a reassuring purr. I love flying. It’s the beginning of a passage into another world where new adventures await.

 

A few years ago more money was exiting my bank account than entering. I was meticulously careful to have enough money on a separate account for a plane ticket to Australia…

It didn’t bother me to do without the inessentials so that I could allow myself this option. The most important thing for me was to have the freedom to choose.

 

It’s raining today. Once again the small basin full lotuses emits a calm force. The light has gone down a few lumens. The lush palms that are carefully oriented suddenly become more oppressing. Their contours stand out.

Within Asia’s chaotic movement, this garden is the only place I have found to cut myself off from the surrounding noise.

 

I have pretty much zero tolerance for noise and crowds. I’m already making my cocoon like a chrysalis that carefully follows the long and scrupulous process that will one day not only allow the birth a magnificent butterfly, but also allow it to fly!!!

I’m in that phase where every moment is very important. Where every piece of food swallowed is appreciated. I can’t stand being hungry during this part of my preparations… I’m not ready to fly yet.

 

Let your soul touch the earth… Go walking.                      Sarah Marquis

 

 

 

 

 

 

Je me suis dorée au soleil tout l'après -midi  avec un livre d'Anne Ancelin Schützenberger /

le plaisir de vivre.

Avec l'orage est venu un doux vent de doute, je le connais il envahit mes tripes, puis il s'écoule dans mes veines doucement, me poussant tout naturellement vers ma bibliothèque, là ou mon esprit aime aller pour contrecarrer ses doutes si forts sur mon chemin, mon existence.

Je me pose continuellement la question : Suis-je au bon endroit ? Suis-je occupée à la réalisation de mon chemin?

Théodore Mono disait : " il faut croire quand même, aimer quand même, espérer quand même "

 

 

At the end of last week Sarah had a photo shoot with Femina magazine which she had been anticipating for some time.  It’s not really her thing posing in front of a camera.  Joe, however was a different story.  He was like a superstar and loved being in front of the camera.  Normally he hates having his picture taken and turns away as soon as you try and take a shot but not that day.    

We drove to Barrage D’Emosson where there is a beautiful lake, surrounding by snow capped mountains.  We had great weather, with sunshine and blue skies.  Looks can be very deceiving as it was actually about –2^oC and we we’re freezing with frozen hands and chilly noses.  After the photo shoot we were all very exciting to drink some chocolat chaud ? Later in the evening we drove to Neuchatel to meet up with Sarah’s parents as they were going to take care of Joe whilst we went to London for a conference.

We arrived in London after are rather scary landing (due to severe cross winds) and we’re delighted for our feet to touch the ground once again.  The first thing we did when we arrived in our hotel was to eat some fish and chips, something we cannot get in Switzerland.  It was delicious.

The next day we arrived early at the Royal Geographical Society for a conference called the “Hidden Outback” in which Sarah was speaking about her adventures in Australia.  The conference began with a live satellite link to Darwin and an Aussie bloke called, Sab Lord who does tailor made safaris in the outback.  There were lots of interesting talks about everything from safaris to walking to Aboriginal culture and art.  Without sounding biased I have to admit I enjoyed Sarah’s the most.  It was a great day which had us leaving with warm thoughts and dreaming of that amazing country.

P.S. Sarah disappeared for over an hour at one point during the presentation. I later found her chatting and laughing with Charley Boorman who was also going speak about his travels in Australia.

I am very happy to be here in Verbier, Switzerland working with Sarah. I am sat in her log cabin in the beautiful Swiss Alps, surrounded by majestic peaks.

We are very busy now preparing for the expedition and everyone is working non-stop.

On Saturday, our work was disturbed by Joe (Sarah’s dog) barking very loudly. We ran to the window to investigate. It was the famous Heren cows with their loud bells around their necks making their annual descent from the high mountains into the valleys in preparation for winter.

I walked through the forest into the village Le Chable, for the annual raclette cheese festival. My mission was accomplished....I had arrived there with a glass of red wine in hand and had tasted lots of delicious cheese. I then had to make my way back (all up hill) from Le Chable which I did just before a storm came.

Sarah Marquis donnera une conférence/débat à Londres le 17 octobre 2009

lors d’une journée événement de la Royal Geographical Society.

Download the programme / Téléchargez le programme

 

PRESS RELEASE TEXT

Explore new Territory at ‘Hidden…Outback’

Simon Calder, one of the UK’s best known travel writers and presenters, actor and adventurer Charlie Boorman, and broadcaster Sandy Gall, will be among the experts going beyond the guidebook to discover the secrets of Australia’s Outback Northern Territory, in the first of a new series of ‘Hidden…’ travel events taking place at the Royal Geographical Society (with IBG) on Saturday 17 October.

Held at the RGS-IBG in London, ‘Hidden… Outback’ will present a series of inspiring sessions for the informed traveller; beginning with a live satellite link to Darwin, where Sab Lord of Lords Kakadu & Arnhem Land Safaris will give a unique insight into the region and offer his top-tips for the Northern Territory’s Top End.

With speakers including journalist Stephen Bleach and solo walker Sarah Marquis, who has journeyed 14,000km through the Outback on foot, this day-long event of lectures, panel discussions and workshops will uncover the personal passions th

at lead seasoned travellers time and again to this geographically remarkable region.

From canoeing the Katherine River with adventure traveller Amar Grover, following the Jatbula Trail with walking expert Christopher Somerville, or discovering the magnificent indigenous art of the region with curator Rebecca Hossack, the event will explore the Territory from the verdant tropical North of Kakadu National Park, to the vast Simpson and Tanami Deserts of the Red Centre.

Throughout the day, visitors will have the opportunity to consult the panel, who will suggest what to see, where, and when in this sparsely populated area: home to the world’s oldest living culture and the iconic Uluru (Ayers Rock).

With expert recommendations and practical advice on everything from solo-trekking and train journeys to local Aboriginal culture and gap-year ideas, ‘Hidden… Outback’ will be accompanied by a photographic exhibition and special offers on travel books, maps and kit, making the event a comprehensive source of information on travel to the region.

31 août - Aéroport de Singapour

Je suis assise dans un grand fauteuil au cuir blanc confortable. Le regard dans le vide, je laisse mon esprit vagabonder seul avec ces centaines d’humains qui s’agitent aux alentours.

Un capuccino laisse échapper une douce odeur rassurante.

Je suis comme saoûlée par cette Asie,

Elle m’a volé la magie que pouvait sécréter les simples mots Katmandou – Bangkok – Saigon – Vientiane...

Elle m’a donné la senteur des multiples, de la différence, de l’indifférence.

J’y ai perçu la fatigue du mouvement de l’autre,

la puanteur du cycle de la vie,

La profondeur du sacré,

la non-valeur du temps...

le temps des valeurs.

Avec encore toute cette douleur d’ASIE dans le fond du regard, mon avion touche le sol suisse en début de matinée.

Aujourd’hui, je glisse avec lui sur une Suisse si polie qui sent bien bon...

Mon coeur sourit tandis que je quitte l’avion pour mes montagnes.

Mon humeur est légère et positive,

Riche du fond de l’oeil, je garde en moi ces pérégrinations asiatiques qui me permettront d’y puiser un échantillon, le moment venu, pour rassurer mon esprit...

Bon vent à vous tous

 

----- english translation by Heidi Etsell -----

Checking out the Asian locations comes to an end

August 31^st sep – Singapore airport

I’m sitting on a big, comfortable, white leather armchair. As I stare into space I let my mind wander alone amongst the hundreds of hectic humans.

A soft reassuring aroma wafts up from my cup of cappuccino.

Asia has made me kind of dizzy…

It has stolen the magic that the simple words Kathmandu – Bangkok – Saigon – Vientiane once evoked for me…

I experienced the feeling of fatigue from the movement of others,

the stink of the cycle of life,

the depth of sacredness,

the non-value of time…

the time for values.

With all this “pain of ASIA” still in the back of my mind my plane touches down on Swiss soil early in the morning.

Today I glide along with the plane on this so well polished and nice smelling Switzerland.

My heart is smiling as I leave the plane and head for my mountains.

My mood is light and positive.

I keep these Asian peregrinations inside me. When needed I will able to dip into these experiences to reassure my mind…